Tailored Wool Coat

My original design included gathered sleeves and a kick pleat in center back. I opted to forgo those elements and instead added a belt and extra buttons. 

This was my first time working with leather so there was a definite learning curve. I opted for a midweight lamb leather, as it is more supple than sheep or cow. Under the direction of my professor, I learned to find the grainline on individual skins. I used small magnets to affix the pattern pieces to the leather.

Pictured is the muslin I created using the original pattern. After this fitting I made necessary pattern changes to ensure a proper fit for my final coat. These changes include fixing the button extension and breakpoint, adding ease into the side seams, and completely redoing the collar pattern.

Pictured is the process of securing the leather piping into the princess seams on the front piece. I used mini clothespins in lieu of pins to avoid poking holes in the leather. After sewing it together, I clipped and graded the seam to reduce bulk.

The final coat and belt partially buttoned.

Pictured is the back of the coat.