Tailored Wool Coat
This coat was inspired by the Chanel Boy Bag and it's luxe details, such as leather piping and quilting. I designed and patterned this coat after selecting a black 100% wool fabric. To elevate this coat design, I created and added leather piping into the princess seams on the front and back.
The original sketch
My original design included gathered sleeves and a kick pleat in center back. I opted to forgo those elements and instead added a belt and extra buttons.
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Learning to use leather
This was my first time working with leather so there was a definite learning curve. I opted for a midweight lamb leather, as it is more supple than sheep or cow. Under the direction of my professor, I learned to find the grainline on individual skins. I used small magnets to affix the pattern pieces to the leather.
Muslin Fitting
Pictured is the muslin I created using the original pattern. After this fitting I made necessary pattern changes to ensure a proper fit for my final coat. These changes include fixing the button extension and breakpoint, adding ease into the side seams, and completely redoing the collar pattern.
Sewing the final coat
Pictured is the process of securing the leather piping into the princess seams on the front piece. I used mini clothespins in lieu of pins to avoid poking holes in the leather. After sewing it together, I clipped and graded the seam to reduce bulk.
Final Coat
The final coat and belt partially buttoned.
Final Coat
Pictured is the back of the coat.